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Don’t ‘Fall’ Behind on Plumbing Maintenance

Cool autumn weekends are ideal for catching up on home maintenance projects that were better avoided during the dog days of summer. One item that should be on every homeowner’s “to do” list is protecting your home’s plumbing system from cold temperatures, which can cause pipes to freeze and burst.
Frozen pipes aren’t just a problem in the North. Houses in warmer climates are also at risk because they typically don’t have sufficient insulation to weather sudden winter cold snaps. And despite some claims to the contrary, all plumbing materials — including plastic pipe — are at risk of damage from freezing when temperatures plummet

Preventing ’Pipesicles’

Exposed plumbing in unheated basements, crawl spaces, attics and garages is most at risk for freezing, according to Andy Kireta, Jr., national program manager for building construction with the Copper Development Association (CDA). Copper tubing, which is used to distribute fresh water in the vast majority of America’s homes, can withstand expansion from freezing several times before bursting. Tests show that water filling a 1/2-inch-diameter annealed copper tube may freeze as many as six times, and 2-inch pipe up to 11 times, without causing damage. However, this does not mean homeowners should allow their water lines to be subjected to freezing.

Plumbing freezes often occur when a home’s water supply is inactive — for example, overnight when people in the house are sleeping, or when everyone is away from home on vacation. The water that is always present in your pipes will freeze when exposed long enough to frigid temperatures. This is bad news for plumbing because extreme cold makes materials brittle and liquid expands when it freezes, a dangerous combination that can cause all types of plumbing tube to crack or burst open, spilling water everywhere. Fortunately, there are solutions to help prevent pipes from freezing. These include the following:

* Wait for a windy day and do a thorough inspection of your home (especially the basement) to determine where air is getting in. Wherever you find gaps, apply inexpensive caulking compound to seal small leaks or use expanding aerosol foam insulation for larger openings. If you can feel the wind blow in a ventilated crawl space or attic, apply insulation only around the pipes to avoid trapping moisture in these areas.

* Local home centers and hardware stores sell pipe insulation sleeves that protect plumbing tube from the cold. Buy the proper sizes matched to the diameters of the pipes you need to protect. (Plumbers caution that pipes can still freeze with these products, so make sure you’ve also plugged any leaks where cold air is entering the house.)

* For plumbing elbows, where two pieces of pipe join together at a 90-degree angle, wrap fiberglass insulation around the pipe and secure with duct tape. (This is an important area to protect because freeze breaks frequently happen at joints, elbows and tees.)

* If your kitchen sink is located on an outside wall, leave cabinet doors under the sink open during cold spells to help keep pipes warm. A layer of foam insulation board fitted tightly against the back wall of the cabinet will also keep the cold from seeping through to the pipes.

* Make sure you don’t leave any windows open in a basement near exposed pipes.

Before temperatures drop, you should also disconnect and drain garden hoses, as well as swimming pool and lawn sprinkler water supply lines, and shut off the water supply to all outdoor water spigots. The water shutoff valve for outdoor spigots is located inside the house — usually in a basement or crawl space. Leave the spigots open to drain any water that may be in the line.

Thawing Out

If you do get a frozen pipe, use only the amount of heat from a hair dryer, heat gun or vacuum cleaner to thaw it. Never use a propane torch. Fires can start this way when heat or sparks ignite flammable items nearby. Before applying heat, open the fixture or faucet that is affected by the frozen pipe to allow steam created during thawing to escape. Gradually warm the pipe by moving the heat source slowly over the entire length of pipe, starting at the faucet end. Electrical heat tapes also may be used to thaw frozen pipes, or to protect exposed plumbing lines at risk from freezing.

Bugs In Your Calgary Drain Line? If Not, Get Some!

One of the best things to happen in the plumbing field in recent times has been the development of biological drain cleaners as an alternative to dangerous and ecologically harmful chemicals. These biological products work via bacteria that consume organic waste.

There are various products of this nature on the market. The best one, in my opinion, is Bio-Clean, which is sold only by plumbing contractors. While the exact formula is a secret, Bio-Clean is a composite of bacteria, enzymes and additives, all coming from natural sources. These natural ingredients come in a powder that remains dormant in it protective container until you apply the right amount of water and pour the solution into waste matter. Then the bacteria come to life and start searching for yucky food. Once fed, their instincts turn to that other fundamental source of life, and they begin to multiply.

The Bio-Clean bugs eat their way through the filth of drain lines, septic tanks, cesspools, RV holding tanks and grease traps without harming pipes, containers or any other inorganic material. People continually find new uses for this amazing substance. It works great, for instance, in removing odour from kitty litter boxes, as well as toilets and urinals. You also can pour it on virtually any kind of organic spill and watch the gooey mess slowly disappear like the Cheshire Cat.

Since the bugs attack only organic waste, Bio-Clean is completely safe and commonly used in hospitals, nursing homes, restaurants and other places subject to stringent health inspections. If you mix it with water and leave it in an open container, nothing w ill happen, until you drop some nasty stuff into the mixture. Then the nasty stuff will slowly disappear. If you drop some on the floor, don’t worry about it. Nor need you worry about using it around children, pets or plants (because it only attacks dead organic tissue, not live matter). People can even ingest Bio-Clean without any ill effects, which some of its salesmen are apt to do from time to time. While I don’t find their demonstrations particularly appetizing, they do drive home the point about its harmlessness.

Perhaps the best testimony to its safety is that you won’t find any warning labels on Bio-Clean containers. This is a mark of supreme confidence by the manufacturers and sellers in our lawsuit-crazed society.

SUPERIOR PERFORMANCE

Bio-Clean is not only better for the environment than the household drain cleaners sold in supermarkets, it works better too. The popular liquid drain cleaners are basically nothing more than bottles of diluted acid. When you pour the liquid or crystals down a drain, these chemicals helplessly succumb to gravity. They can’t climb the inner side and ceiling walls of pipes, so they can’t reach the waste that fills most of the interior. All they can do is seep along the bottom and burn a small tunnel in the accumulation. Picture a piece of 2-inch diameter tube with about a 1/4-inch diameter tube resting inside of it. The larger cylinder represents the accumulated waste matter blocking your drain line, the smaller tube the hole burrowed by the caustic chemical. It doesn’t take long for another solid to block that small hole once again.

Sometimes the blockage is so dense that it cannot be completely penetrated by the chemical. Instead the chemical accumulates until it burns a hole in the pipe wall, or reacts with grease in the system to form a caustic soap that can congeal into a substance as hard as concrete. These caustic soap dams can be harder to eliminate than the original waste stoppage.

In contrast, Bio-Clean bacteria spread out along the entire inner surface of the pipe wall, eating waste away from floor, sides and ceiling alike. Depending on the size and type of blockage, it usually takes 3 to 14 days for the bugs to consume all accumulated waste inside household drain pipes. When finished, those drain lines will be almost as clean as the day they w ere installed.

For initial treatment it is recommended to apply for 5 consecutive days a mixture of about 1 level tablespoon of Bio-Clean powder for each inch of pipe diameter, mixed with 1 pint per tablespoon of lukewarm water. Afterwards, a single treatment about once a month is usually sufficient for maintenance.

DRAWBACKS

While I think Bio-Clean is the best drain cleaning product around, you should be aware of a few draw backs and limitations.

One is that during the initial treatment stage, it might momentarily worsen a blockage before eliminating it. This is because it works so well removing waste from the entire interior of pipes. As waste gets eaten from the upper portion of a pipe surface, it may loosen and fall in a heap that may block the flow for awhile until the bacteria can finish their feast on the floor. As a result, many plumbers who sell Bio-Clean recommend that you have your drain line rodded as part of the initial treatment. Odds are this would be the last time you’ll need rodding as long as you continue to use Bio-Clean.

You also ought to be aware that Bio-Clean will not attack inorganic compounds that may get trapped in the drain line, such as children’s toys. (It will work on toilet paper, tissue and sanitary napkins, because they are all made from organic substances.) Also, while Bio-Clean will eventually degrade hair, this takes substantially longer than it does to get rid of most other organic build-ups. Even using Bio-Clean, from time to time you may find it necessary to take a plunger to the drains where you wash your hair. What comes up, how ever, will be almost pure hair instead of the foul mixture of hair and gunk found in homes that don’t use Bio-Clean.

Also, Bio-Clean w ill not work without the right combination of water volume, temperature and pH. How ever, using it correctly does not require a degree in rocket science. Each container comes with clear and simple instructions that virtually everyone can handle.

A can of Bio-Clean contains about 85 tablespoons of the substance. For most households, this is enough for a year or more of treatment and maintenance. This is less than the cost of a single rodding with a drain cleaning machine, and much more gentle on your fixtures and pipes. Ask your technician about Bio-Clean. You will be glad you did.

Tips To Winterize Your Calgary Home

For those of us who aren’t lucky enough to live in areas that are warm year round, it’s time to start to think about winterizing your home.

Winterizing not only helps prevent small repairs once the season breaks into spring, but can also help save in heating costs. With energy prices rapidly rising, we could all benefit from saving a few pennies this winter.

In this issue we’ll explore the first half of your winterizing checklist – be sure to read next month’s issue to find out the final steps, and remember that whether you’re in the coldest of states or enjoying the mildest of winters in the south, Handyman Matters can assist you in all your home repair and improvement needs.

To properly winterize, you’ll want to do the following:

Seal any leaks around your windows and doors. To do this, you’ll want to:

• Add or replace worn weather stripping around your doors and windows – weather-stripping is a strip of resilient material for covering the joint between the window sash and frame in order to reduce air leaks and prevent water from entering the structure. You can find this at any home repair equipment retailer.
• Caulk gaps where necessary
• Replace worn door stops at the bottom of all of your exterior doors
• If you have older windows, replace them with energy efficient ones.

Did you know that if you added up all the cracks and gaps in your home, it would be equal to leaving one window open all winter long?

• Seal other leaks
• You can use caulking and weather stripping around entry points for your pipes and ducts that travel through an exterior wall
• Consider installing insulation kits behind electrical plugs that are on a wall with an exterior side
• Check your insulation
• Proper attic insulation helps keep your home warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer!

Ask the staff at Clearview Plumbing and Heating how much insulation is recommended in your area, then check your attic insulation to make sure it’s adequate. Additionally, some homes benefit from extra insulation in the walls. We will be happy to explain what types of wall insulation are available.

Quick, Helpful Plumbing Tips For Your Calgary Home

When in Doubt, Give it a Cleaning

Over time, certain grime or gunk can build up, making sinks slow to drain. Before looking to replace any parts, start with a thorough cleaning. You clean the bathroom every week, but every once in a while it is important to put in a little more time and elbow grease. Using the example of the sink, remove the plug from the drain and look inside to see if something is blocking up the water.

If you can see it, reach into the drain and attempt to remove the objects. You can even try to use something like a crochet needle to catch hold of things to take out. Sometimes, a bathroom or kitchen just needs a little maintenance to keep things running smoothly. If you put everything back together and the problem isn’t solved, you may need more help diagnosing the problem. Call someone to come out and take a look at the toilet, sink or pipes to get a professional opinion.

Read the Directions

It seems like an over simplified suggestions, but many people run to the store, pick up a product that claims to help with plumbing issues and pour it into their sink, drain or toilet. You don’t want to create more damage, you just want to clear up any blockage and get the water moving again. Some products are made specifically for sink clogs and problems. Many times, the directions instruct consumers to avoid pouring the product down the drain.

Each portion of the plumbing in your home works differently as each serves a different purpose. When you look to fix a problem on your own with a product from the local grocery store, be sure to read everything. In addition to protecting your bathroom and kitchen, you also safeguard yourself against any adverse effects that can cause physical harm to yourself or someone else in the home.

Don’t Wait Until It’s Too Late

Sometimes a plumbing problem starts out small, but it can progress quickly. As you get into a project and you find that things are getting better or it becomes too confusing or complicated, it is time to call the experts. Continuing to take sinks, drains, or garbage disposals apart can cause more serious damage and may not fix anything. If you see any indication that things are going to get worse, seek out professional help. Remember that it takes time to locate a plumbing company, set an appointment and have things looked at. You don’t want to be without the use of a sink or toilet for a long amount of time, so keep a time table in mind when you think about handing the situation over.

Carbon Monoxide Problems In Your Calgary Home

The most common carbon monoxide (CO) problems involve a lack of oxygen – either because there is simply not enough, or because the flames cool off before the carbon can join with it. CO is produced whenever a fuel is burned without enough oxygen on hand. Carbon atoms in the fuel that normally join up with two oxygen atoms to form carbon dioxide, which is harmless to human health, end up with only one oxygen atom and instead form CO.

Basic Steps to Getting CO Into Your Life

It is not enough to understand how to create CO, we need to examine all of the coordinating factors which can create it and allow it into the living space.

Five basic factors not only lead to the production of CO, but will aid in getting it into your homes. Any one major failure can get CO into your home, but typically three of these factors must go awry to produce a major problem.

The Flow of Fuel

As you add fuel to a fire, the fire produces more Btus of heat. It also requires more oxygen to combine with the carbon and hydrogen to form carbon dioxide and water vapor (H2O. As you continue to add fuel, the amount of available oxygen needs to keep up or CO will be produced, which is incompletely burned carbon. In engineered systems (all modern combustion appliances) the amount of air that can move through the unit is limited by the design. Any additional restriction (dirt, lint, carbon) will result in the air flow being reduced. The air flow is controlled by the laws of nature (hot air rises). The flow of fuel is controlled by the pressure applied to the fuel and the size of the hole it is forced through. Any problem with the pressure of fuel input can lead to problems with the fuel/air mixture.

Competition for Air

We refer to many kinds of air when describing a standard combustion appliance (combustion air, primary air, secondary air, dilution air, return air, supply air, and so on). Air, or more precisely the oxygen in the air, is fundamental to the combustion process. The amount of air than can come into standard appliances is typically controlled by two basic systems. First is the mix of gas and air before combustion (primary air). This is controlled by the design of the burner, the pressure of the gas, and any control of the air stream. The secondary air, or additional air that is needed to supply oxygen to the flames, is simply controlled by the amount of air that is drawn through the heat exchanger.

In order for these two simple systems at the appliance to supply adequate oxygen for complete combustion, there needs to be sufficient air to the area around the appliance. Any competition for the air needed for the combustion process can lead to problems. The power of the competition does not need to be strong to overcome the natural forces of the combustion appliance.

Venting: The Wild Card

Getting all of the combustion products out of the living space, a matter of indoor air quality, is fundamental to the safety of our clients. Codes and venting systems are designed to ensure this happens. In the cases that combustion appliances are unvented (they vent into the living space), there are specific directions for additional ventilation needs (like opening a window).

Venting can be a wild card due to its relationship to both the weather and the physical configuration, time of year, time of day, connection with other appliances, connection with the house, and so on. All of these relationships can have a dramatic effect on the draft of an appliance. The fundamental principle is that hot air rises. We can thus figure out how much area in the vent is needed to get all the combustion products out of the building. These rules may not always result in successful venting in actual buildings. Only testing can provide an indication of the operation.

Operation

The operations of the appliance can be broken down into two components: those defined primarily by the internal controls of the unit and those dictated by the occupant. We have found many units where the appliance is not able to operate correctly and that just happened to keep the unit from being a major liability to health and safety. Changing any portion of the operation may affect safety. This includes adjusting the distribution, air tightness of the unit, ductwork, load/insulation, not to mention touching the unit itself. The client’s operation of the unit can also affect safety.

Luck (Or Lack of)

Luck is the final card. It is the random combination of the first four factors and other things that affect the building. Simple things like unclogging a dryer vent, fixing a bath fan, repairing ducts, or insulating walls, can change the operating patterns of the combustion devices.

How it Happens

In addition to the five basic components, we have seen significant patterns in the creation of CO.

Very few HVAC installers have the equipment necessary to ensure a safe installation of a combustion appliance is completed. Many units create CO because of improper setup and testing. Problems with gas pressure, orifice size, and improper venting are the most common.

Remodeling

Remodeling a building often involves adding walls and changing the combustion air location and source availability. At Sun Power we have seen new house designs which virtually ensure that the combustion air source will be eliminated. In addition to limiting the combustion air, remodeling typically increases the pollution in the area of the combustion devices (for instance installing a dryer in a small room with the furnace).

Deterioration and Proper Installation

Long-term deterioration of an appliance is not a common factor leading to CO production. However, deterioration is a common problem with units that were marginally installed: vents with long horizontal runs may have just met standards when they were installed but are prone to rust out over time. Venting into an unlined chimney can lead to problems (erosion of the chimney can eventually lead to leaks). Dirt from a crawlspace can fall down and block the combustion air hoes in a water heater. Even crawlspace furnaces stay fairly trouble-free unless major contaminants are introduced into the area. Dryers and water are the chief causes, but rust and lint are good at blocking everything.

CO can be drastically reduced in the home if the units are installed correctly in a dedicated area which is not connected to the living space. This requires a room for the combustion appliances that is vented with outside combustion air (or sealed combustion units) and has sealed ductwork.

A New Furnace Can Reduce Heating Costs in Your Calgary Home

Heating bills across the country are the highest they have ever been, with out any relief in sight. Even if your older furnace runs, from an economic standpoint it would be wise to replace it. With the proper furnace selection, your central air-conditioning bills can be lower too.

Compared with a 17-year-old furnace, a new furnace can save the typical family hundreds of dollars per year. Based on the efficiency of your old furnace, probably 60% at best, a new furnace can cut your utility bills by 40%. You can do the arithmetic to determine your annual savings.

Not only will you have lower utility bills, but the comfort and quiet operation of a new system will surprise you. The contractor should install a computerized thermostat with it. This thermostat, coupled with the electronic controls in the new furnace, will maintain even room temperatures.

You can choose from two basic designs of furnaces: condensing and non-condensing. The condensing models (this refers to the type of heat exchanger used) are the most efficient and the best choice for most homeowners. The efficiencies of condensing models range from about 90% to over 95%.

These models are very efficient, and so little heat is lost in the flue gases that a chimney is not needed. The gases are exhausted by a 2-inch-diameter plastic pipe through an outdoor wall. With no need for a new chimney liner, a condensing furnace is often cheaper to install.

Some models also offer sealed combustion for better efficiency. The combustion air is drawn in from outdoors through another plastic pipe instead of being drawn from inside your house. Being sealed, there are fewer indoor drafts, less noise and less chance of hazardous back drafting.

For the ultimate in comfort and efficiency, but at a higher initial cost, is a two-stage heat output furnace with a variable-speed blower. This type of blower is needed if you want the best central air-conditioning.

In all but the coldest weather, the gas burners operate at a low heat level. This allows the furnace to run more continuously with fewer uncomfortable on/off cycles. The blower also runs slower and quieter at this low level. During very cold weather, it automatically switches to high heat.

If your budget allows, also install a quality air cleaner. Since a two-stage unit runs more, the air cleaner is more effective for allergy sufferers.

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phone: 2ON-TIME (266-8463)

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